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谈到吸烟装,就一定会聊到的两个人物

2018-07-17 08:51:00 yoka论坛 分享
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时候。设计师Yves Saint Laurent曾说过:“吸烟装对于女人来说是必不可少的单品,就像是永远抽不完的烟盘旋而上,吸烟装会一直在潮流中,这是一种风格而非一种潮流。潮流来了又去,唯有风格永垂不朽。”2016秋冬,如何打破套装一贯以来的古板和拘谨,将吸烟装穿出高雅摩登气质?往下看,保证你能找到满意答案。

经久不衰的吸烟装(Le Smoking)究竟是什么?

谈到吸烟装,就一定会聊到的两个人物:演员Marlene Dietrich(马琳·黛德丽)和设计师Yves Saint Laurent(伊夫·圣洛朗)。好莱坞影后MarleneDietrich在电影《摩洛哥》中的一身男式晚礼西装打扮标定了一个电影时代,也给时尚标定了一个新起点,也真正成就了时装性别倒置游戏规则。

Marlene Dietrich在电影《摩洛哥》中的造型,彻底颠覆了当时的传统审美,分分钟帅出新高度

但是电影和生活终究是有距离的,直到1966年,法国天才设计师Yves Saint Laurent取缔了这个介于电影与现实之间的屏障,他将男装元素运用到女性服装里,白衬衫、领结、黑色礼服套装、毛呢礼帽,设计出时尚界第一套无尾版的燕尾服(女版西服),这种带有独特男性风格的服装被当时的时尚界称为“吸烟装 (Le Smoking)”。

1966年设计师Yves SaintLaurent(伊夫·圣洛朗)与他的灵感缪斯、法国女星凯瑟琳·德纳芙(Catherine Deneuve)

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